Today i was in Glen Coe ascending the Zig Zags and with a descent of Broad gully (with is still a gully, but not very broad).
We looked at more mountaineering rope work and placing gear whilst moving together before getting to the top of of the Zig Zags.
Once on the top of Gearr Aonach we made our way to the top of Stob Corie nan Lochan which had a good level for frost over the rocks and frozen scree, crampons were useful.
A descent of Broad gully was our option down,
Ledge route on Ben Nevis was my 4th ascent of the year on the mountain which is not bad considering its only the 4th January.
With warmer temperatures there was a bit less slippery frost on the walk in, with audable ice fall coming off the cliffs.
Todays focus was on mountaineering ropework, looking at short roping and moving together, with all the intricacies of good rope grip, where the rope goes, good natural belays and body positioning. We did wear crampons on Ledge
Ledge Route on Ben Nevis was the choice today, and what a difference from yesterday with the weather. Cold, blue skys and some snow falling as well.
The focus today was on mountaineering ropework, to add onto the rope work we covered yesterday.
There was a heavy frost from about the height of the CIC hut and whilst on Ledge Route we even had some snow fall which made the ridge look more wintery. With the decrease in temperatures the remaining slushy snow in the gullies
Curved Ridge in Glen Coe was sheltered today from the south westerly winds and remained dry until the afternoon.
We focused upon short pitches today, building efficient belays, stance management and how to spot good anchors. We then moved up the ridge in good time before being exposed to the wind and rain from the summit.
Needless to say there is no snow up or down the mountain at the moment. #glencoe #curvedridge #mountaineering
Today i was on Curved Ridge, Glen Coe with father and son team, Gregor and Ron.
With aleady a good level of climbing experience between them they were keen to learn mountaineering rope work, which suited the wet and windy day.
The guys led themselves up the route and along the way we looked at the transition between moving the rope up the route to short pitches, efficient belays and identifying safe and quick anchors. #glencoe #Curvedridge #Mountaineering
With a favourable forecast I headed on to Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir with Shaun and Ben.
They had been out the last 2 days on Skye being guided up the In Pinn, Sgurr MhicChoinnich, Sgurr na Banachdaich and Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, all in strong wind, rain and cloud. So they were glad today to get views from the tops and only a few showers.
We made good progress into the corie and then onto the slippery Am Basteir over the bad step. The guys then tackled the crazy pinna
After a damp start the Aonach Eagach in Glen Coe brightened up well in the afternoon for Mo and her friends.
We made steady progress over the difficulties and comfort Zones were pushed. But a very rewarding day. #aonacheagach #Glencoe #Mountaineering
Today i was on the Inaccessible Pinnacle, Sgurr MhicChoinnich and Sgurr na Banachdaich on Skye.
Another very hot day and a hot walk into Corrie Laggan. The streams are really starting to dry up now above the main rivers.
The team did well in the heat and enjoyed the In Pinn with time on the summit for views all around before the abseil. #skye #Cuillin #Mountaineering #Munro
Today i was on the northern 3 munros on the Isle of Skye with the Welsh walking club on day 1 of their Skye munros course.
It was another hot day so shorts, water, suncream and a steady pace was the order of the day.
We ticked off Bruach na Frithe 1st and then Am Basteir and Sgurr nan Gillean.
Lots of teams at the end of their Skye ridge traverse made for a sociable mountain. #skye #Mountaineering #Munro
Day 2 with Ian and Mat and we headed for Curved Ridge in Glen Coe for West Coast Mountain Guides. The snow wasn’t frozen for most of the day which made for hard work up the avalanche debris at the base of Rannoch wall, on the ridge and on the exit slopes. But Curved ridge is in very good condition and the weather was anazing. We descending down the corie on firm snow avoiding the corniced edge. The approach, Rannoch wall in centre The summit Corniced edge Descending #Glencoe
Day 2 with Sam and Nicole for Kirkhope Mountaineering, we introduced the rope on School house ridge. The aim of the day was to winterise their summer climbing knowledge. This entailed lots of digging for gear placements, belay stance management and what to do for a belay when all you have is a snowy ridge. We also introduced mountaineering coils and rope techniques and the differing safety elements of using the rope. There was a lot of fresh windslab on the ridge and in the
On a wet and wild day with John for West Coast Mountain Guides, School house ridge in Glen Coe was a safe bet. Not much winter on the ridge but slush was falling from all angles at about 800m, although not much settling. We looked at bucket seats and body belaying before making our way up the steeper rocky steps. Before a few last bucket seats on the steeper snow to the shoulder peak. The descent was interesting with both of us being blown to the ground by the gusts at arou
The Zig Zags via the direct buttress was the best option today for father and son team for Kirkhope Mountaineering. The guys wanted to get their teeth stuck into something and the direct route up the front of Gearr Aonach fitted the bill. A few thought provoking moves on the wet rock saw us up 3 good pitches of scrambling before descending down the normal route, with an abseil descent, concluded the day. Up! Down! #glencoe #Mountaineering #Climbing #Fortwilliam
The Aonach Eagach was a good way to end the week and a contrast to the climbing yesterday for Richard and Gregor for West Coast Mountain Guides. Sun, firm snow, ice and no wind, made for a perfect day along the ridge. The guys lead the first section themselves using mountaineering rope work before i lead them along the rest of the route #aonacheagach #Glencoe #Mountaineering
The western rib on the west face of Aonach Mor was a good choice for Richard and Gregor to get their teeth stuck in to for West Coast Mountain Guides. Plenty of fresh snow on the walk in and on the route we had pretty much everything: mixed turf, deep wading, soft aretes, ice, rime ice and sun! We did about 8 pitches and then turned to mountaineering mode for the top section. Summit sun! #aonachmor #Nevisrange #Mountaineering #Winter #Climbing
The east ridge of the north top of Stob Ban was the route of choice for today for West Coast Mountain Guides, with strong SW winds it was quite sheltered. Getting to the ridge is still tricky with swolen rivers and a wet snow pack. The ridge itself was mostly black on the buttresses with snow on the aretes. The guys led themselves up the 1st 3 pitches and changed the rope technique to moving together. #Stobban #Glennevis #Mountaineering #Winter #Climbing #Fortwilliam
School House ridge was the safe route choice for today, working for West Coast Mountain Guides. With high temperatures and rain making the snow heavey there was lots of evidence of natural avalanches in most cories. Today we looked at mountaineering rope techniques and belay building with short pitches. #glencoe #Mountaineering #Climbing #Winter
The Zig Zags in Glen Coe was the route of choice today for Chris and Kyle for their 1st outdoor climbing experience for The Ice Factor. The route was low down (easy to get to) and below the forecast Considerable avalanche hazard (which was 700m and above), but neither proved the case. Tracks made it easier but still waist deep and there was evidence of 3 natural avalanches on the route where snow had come off rocky slabs and set off the slope below (i assume last night). Wit
Ledge Route on Ben Nevis today with Adrian for his Everest prep. We focused on good footwork on steep snow slopes in ascent and descent. There is a lot of snow on Ledge route providing a simple mountaineering route, today did require a few kneeling positions against the gusts. A short fight against the wind on the plateaux brought us to the top of Number 4 gully. Firm snow most of the way down but a few rocky sections starting to form. Ledge route Approach to Ledge Route Th