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  • Writer's pictureDavid Buckett

North Buttress, Buachaille Etive Mor, Glencoe

Today i was on North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe. There was a fresh feeling to the air today on the walk in, feeling more like autumn than summer. We quickly broke off the path to gain the scrambling up to North Buttress and this is one of the reasons for it being one of my favourite mountaineering routes. From very low down you are on grade 2 and 3 scrambling for a few hundred meters gaining height to the start of the climbing.

Once at the base of the main chimney we changed to pitching and we went over the basics of removing gear, belaying and rope management, reminding the guys from their past experiences.

5 pitches up the chimney and over the 2 short crux walls we were at the top of the difficulties, where we took in the views of Glencoe and to Ben Nevis. From there we made the final few hundred meters of scrambling gaining the busy summit of Stob Deag directly, glad we had seen no-one else on the route.

North Buttress climbing, Buachaille Etive Mor, Glencoe
North buttress, Glencoe

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