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  • Writer's pictureDavid Buckett

Glencoe rock climbing

Over the last 2 days myself and instructor Matt have been taking people up some of the classic rock climbs in Glencoe, The Bowstring, Farewell arete and Agags Groove.

Yesterday I was on The Bowstring and Farewell arete which makes for a good continuation linking the 2 routes and covering around 300m of climbing.

We made our way up the Stob Corrie nan Lochan path in Glencoe which goes between the 3 sisters of Glencoe, one of the most photographed views in the Highlands.

Soon we cut off and crossed the river to below the crags and walked up to the Barn Wall area were we geared up and started up the dry and compact buttress.

Glencoe climbing, The Bowstring
Barn wall crag

From the 1st belay there is a steep wall to surmount and then steady away for the next 40 meters to the belay next to the Terrace face area. From there we decided to continue up the final 50 meters to finish the route.

Glencoe climbing, The Bowstring with Aonach Eagach in the background
Belay by the Terrace face

However I found that actually we had to do another 50 meter pitch above that before the ground eased off enough and I was happy that we could then simply walk off on the grassy ledges. 200m of climbing and with great views to Glencoe and the cliffs of Stob Corrie nan Lochan.

Glencoe climbing, The Bowstring

We then walked roughly south towards Stob Corrie nan Lochan and under Far Eastern Buttress which is another climbing crag. I suggested going up the classic of Farewell arete before descending to our bags for a late lunch.

As described the route goes up the arete on the right of the crag and I wondered after starting up if it was called Farewell arete as i could have said farewell to my rack which wasn’t really needed. With 1 key and only piece of gear about 6m up before heading left onto a ledge made the pitch happen. From there is was good steady climbing for another pitch and a half, with a total of 4 pieces of gear in 90 meters.

Glencoe climbing, Farewell arete, Far Eastern Buttress.
Farewell arete

Today Matt was on the classic Agags Grove on Buachaille Etive Mor on Rannoch wall. This is the walk of rock on the right hand side of Curved Ridge and Agags Grove takes a diagonal line through the face, in spectacular positions.

Agags Groove, Buachalle Etive Mor
Agags Groove

There are a few ways off from the top, either descend Curved Ridge or if you have your bags you can continue on to the summit of Stob Dearg. Most climbers choose not to climb with rucksacks and add a bit more rock to the day by descending Curved Ridge.

Amazing summer weather to tick off 3 classic rock routes in Glencoe.

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